Forget The K-Series, You Need A J-Series V-6…Now
In case you’re not geek enough to get it, TNG refers to The Next Generation, the successful Star Trek remake. Twenty years after Kirk and Spock had trouble with Tribbles, Picard and Ryker battled the Borg, and the entire franchise was reborn. The analogy is there. Really. Honda land’s been slow lately. B swaps are far too common to be cool and the K, when done right, is still too pricey; engines and transmissions together are still $4,000. So what do you do when you want all eyes on you or you’re just looking to haul some ass? The old hot-rodders say it best: “There’s no replacement for displacement,” especially 3.5 liters and 24 valves of six-cylinder, VTEC goodness.

Arizona Performance Imports’ (API) Tim Beadle has been working with Honda’s J-series V-6 for the past three years. Tim was among the first to install one in a sand rail, which means he was among the first to get one to run outside of the engine’s OEM chassis. Of course, if you can get a J-series to work in a fabbed-from-scratch sand rail, then dropping a J35A4 into a ‘92 Civic should be easy. In part, due to the sand rail business’s recent downturn, this is exactly what Tim, a 20-plus-year certified Honda mechanic, did.

It’s difficult to talk about Honda engine swaps without mentioning Hasport though. The project began with modified Hasport mounts, which went through several revisions to get the drivetrain to its final positioning. In the end, ground clearance remains the same and, with the exception of the tachometer and speedometer, you’d swear Honda test-fitted this themselves at some point. Of course, that probably never happened, but it doesn’t matter. API now offers everything you need for your own trouble-free V-6 engine swap as does Hasport, who offers power steering-compatible kits for Civic and Integra chassis.

The J-Series: Getting The Right One
Honda’s current line of V-6s, the J-series, ranges in displacements from 3.0-3.7 liters. Each has VTEC, some have i-VTEC. While none of them offer the horsepower-per-liter characteristics of some of the best B- or K-series engines, the J-series does offer one thing no Honda four-cylinder engine does–torque. And lots of it. To further the case for the V-6, there’re simply a ton of them out there. Today, there are 13 different J35 engines and few of them are terribly expensive. Look around; an Odyssey minivan’s J35A4 can go for as low as $900. You simply cannot argue with 240 hp combined with Honda reliability for less than a grand. There’s bad news though and it has to do with the transmission. API’s swap kit currently supports only the manual transmission. An automatic kit is coming since there’re far more automatic transmissions out there, despite how weird it may seem at first to go from a manual trans to an automatic one. Nevertheless, dropping an automatic J35A into the wife’s sedan is enough to reinvent grocery getting.

And then there’s the J30A. It’s smaller and doesn’t have the displacement or torque of the 3.5-liter engines nor a coil-on-plug ignition. Despite that, there’s a 240hp J30A4 that can be found in the ‘03-’05 Accord, which has the second best power-per-liter ratio of all. Of course, the ‘09 TL SH-AWD’s J37A4 takes the cake here but one of those will likely require you to slang body parts on eBay.

The J32A is another good choice. These can be found in various ‘99-’07 CL and TL chassis, including the Type S. There’re plenty of these out there, with the Type S and newer engines being the next logical steps up. Like the older Accord’s J30A1, pre-’00 engines have distributor ignitions. The good news is that the Type S’ extra power comes from a different intake manifold, cylinder heads, and camshafts, all of which can swap over to any ‘98-’02 non-Type S J30A or J32A. The Type S’ intake manifold is similar to the GS-R’s, Prelude’s, and NSX’s dual-stage versions but isn’t as important as the heads and cams.

Arguably the easiest engine to find and the best bang for the buck, the ‘02-’04 Odyssey’s J35A4 makes a whole lot of sense. It’s rated at 240 hp but that’s on 87 octane. Oh, it also already has the Type S heads and intake but with a spacer that helps shift the torque curve down. Honda sold nearly one million of these vans during those three years so finding one is easy. Of course, this is the engine API used in its ‘92 Civic.

As you might expect, the newer engines present installation challenges of their own. First, there’s the drive-by-wire throttle. Every ‘03-and-newer Accord and MDX has an electronic throttle as do all Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines, beginning with ‘05, and the ‘04 and up TL. It’ll work, but the donor engine’s corresponding harness, ECU, and accelerator pedal must all be used. Reverting back to a non-drive-by-wire setup is an option, but this requires the appropriate throttle body, cable, and ECU, all of which costs more money. It goes without saying that these newer, drive-by-wire engines are more expensive, even from the junkyards.

The exhaust system is the other problem. Along with the drive-by-wire throttle, Honda developed integrated exhaust manifolds for the newer J-series, which is basically one big exhaust port that hangs off the back of each head. Today, there are no downpipes offered for these applications since the catalytic converters bolt directly to the heads, but who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Oh, and about the available manual transmissions, such gearboxes can be found only in the ‘03 and newer Accord V-6 or any of Acura’s Type S vehicles. Honda didn’t begin producing these until ‘03 and, even once they did, they only account for roughly five percent of its total J-series transmission production. Have fun finding one. Both have six gears and are identical save for the Type S’ mechanical limited-slip differential. But hunting for a Type S tranny won’t seem all that bad when considering the amount of torque you’ll be expecting your 2,600-pound Civic chassis to handle.

The Wiring: No, It’s Not Easy
Ah, but this is a can of worms. The tough part is integrating the J-series engine harness with the Civic’s chassis harness. It’s no surprise that the plugs are different, but the J’s engine harness will also most likely be from an automatic. And, of course, the newer ECUs all have immobilizers. First, sort out the ECU. To make things simple, get a non-drive-by-wire engine along with its matching ECU. Other ECUs can be used, but what does and doesn’t work is still being sorted out. To avoid the immobilizer hassle, be sure to get the key and immobilizer ring with the ECU. The ECU doesn’t need to match the engine, but the key and ECU do need to match one another. If obtaining an ECU with its matching key isn’t an option, the ECU can be reprogrammed at most Honda dealerships. Simply bring in the title and most dealers will reprogram the ECU to match a new key. The immobilizer can then be wired appropriately and taped next to the ECU along with the key. You won’t need to access these unless something goes wrong.

The engine harness is next. It’s easiest to use the donor engine’s harness, but with vans made in Alabama, some Acuras and Accords in Ohio, and some random Japanese stuff thrown in just to make things complicated, there’re many harnesses. Some route into the cabin where they connect to the ECU, and some terminate inside the engine compartment, sort of like the ‘92-’95 Civic. API used an ‘02-’03 automatic CL harness. If swapping a Type S engine, the Type S harness will be necessary to activate the multi-stage intake manifold. Unfortunately, the harness is loaded with stuff that the automatic transmission needs, so some labor is required to strip things away appropriately. Its power and sensor plugs terminate in the engine bay, while the ECU plugs route into the cabin–like the Civic. This allows API to leave all of the Civic stuff in place and simply wire in the V-6 engine harness.

A great deal of work needs to be done here though. The harness needs power and must be grounded, and connections to the chassis harness need to be made as well as a few other odds and ends. You could sit down with a pair of service manuals for a couple of weeks, or you could call API, who’s already figured it all out. API offers a race harness with a pair of power leads, aftermarket tachometer connections, and cooling fan and temperature sensor outputs. It’s the same harness API uses on its sand rails but will also work for your Civic. Sending in the Civic engine harness along with the V-6’s plus $450 will get you a new purpose-built harness. Add $325 if you’re missing the V-6 one.

API also offers speed sensor-compatible wiring harnesses, which is a huge bonus. Unfortunately, most ECUs are from automatics, which use different speed sensors than the manuals. Without the appropriate speed sensor input, VTEC won’t work and, after running for a short time, will force the engine into limp mode. API has all of this figured out and modifies the harness so that the ECU can get the proper signal. Finally, if you buy the ECU and harness together from API, they’ll also deactivate the ECU’s immobilizer. API sells the matching ECU for most J-series engines for $325.

The Axles And Shifter
The axles began as a combination of about five different OEM pieces but, what with popped joints and broken pieces, a custom set was eventually made. API now offers axles that fit the ‘92-’00 Civic and ‘94-’01 Integra. They’re good to 300 whp and work with the J’s stock manual transmission intermediate shaft, so make sure you get that with your six-speed should you go the manual trans-route. And then there’s the shifter. Similar to the H- and K-series swaps, the Js all use cable-operated shifter mechanisms. That means the appropriate cables and shifter box are required. Unlike the K swaps though, OEM Accord K-series shifter cables and shifter boxes work here. Unbelievably, these parts, from an ‘03-’07 Accord, cost only $250. The tricky part is mounting all of this. The shifter box must be mounted underneath the car and sealed off. Only one of the original mounting bosses can be used. To make it all fit, API offers a mounting plate that securely fastens the box without modifying the console or anything else inside. It’s so easy, even your old Civic shift knob will fit.

The Install
Surprisingly, bolting in the J-series is as easy a swap as any, perhaps easier. The toughest part is removing the right-side transmission bracket from the frame rail. API started with a ‘92 VX hatchback, which doesn’t have power steering. The API kit mounts the engine far back to take advantage of those missing power steering components. Don’t worry though; Hasport’s kit works with or without power steering. With the OEM bracket removed, the new API bracket bolts to the framerail’s underside using the crash bracket holes as locators. API recommends welding the bracket’s perimeter and painting it. The left-side and rear mounting locations don’t change, but new brackets must be bolted into place to accommodate the new mounts.

Ground clearance is astonishingly ample, with the preexisting subfame being the lowest point. This comes at the expense of hood clearance but, with an engine this big, why hide it? The truth is that a hood hasn’t yet been fitted simply because there won’t be much left. The good news is that the J35A4 fits, easily, but it’s tall. Some custom fabrication, a one-off hood, or even an intake manifold swap will prove to be the remedy.

And then there’s the cooling system. Simply move the radiator off to the left side to keep things cool–just like with a K swap–and reuse the original Civic hoses. The API-modified harness operates the fan and provides a signal to the factory temperature sensor just like you’d expect. Air conditioning has yet to be tested, but the fix might be as simple as using an Integra condenser, some custom lines, and a J-series compressor. Time will tell.

Everything Else
The J-series exhaust is an odd one. Its rear manifold travels forward but makes a 180-degree turn to merge with the front one. API’s Civic has OEM-style, Comptech headers that merge into a 2.5-inch catalytic converter where it meets up with a resonator and a small muffler. This makes for all kinds of great noises and is probably enough flow for the low-revving J35A4. Despite that, some additional ponies could likely be found with real headers that eliminate that silly 180-degree bend.

Of course, the J-series is heavier than the D-series, even the B-series, possibly by as much as 100 pounds. To compensate, Eibach produced a set of springs for the front that turned out to be a great match. Turn-in is sharp with no noticeable plowing. New springs for the added weight are a must for this swap.

It’s hard to believe that this swap took so long to happen. The work is really no more difficult than with any other Civic swap, but perhaps with so many good four-cylinder Honda engines, no one bothered looking to the V-6. The truth is that the J-series is an excellent engine that Honda put a great deal of engineering into. It is not a high-rpm, high-horsepower screamer, but judging from the dyno test, there’s massive potential here. Plus, once you drive a car with this much torque, four may never again be enough.

Honda’s J-Series: Just The Facts
The J-series is the successor to Honda’s ubiquitous V-6, the C-series. First put into the ‘97 CL and ‘98 Accord, it’s since unofficially became Honda’s workhorse. Much like Nissan’s VQ, you’ll find the J in just about everything. The big difference between the Js and Cs is their angles. The C-series, which includes early Accords, the Legend, and the NSX, features 90-degree-opposed cylinder banks. The J-series measures in at a more compact 60 degrees, which means the heads are closer together and the overall package is smaller. Although there are rare homologations like the J25, the U.S. has only seen variations that range from 3.0 to 3.7 liters. In short, the J-series is excellent. They’re all four-valve-per-cylinder, SOHC, configurations with VTEC on their intake sides. They have open-deck blocks with cast pistons and forged crankshafts; some even have forged rods. Prior to the latest 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD engine, they all had 89mm bores with the displacement discrepancies coming from stroke. The Type S engines have the best cams, but the secret is that the J35s feature the same heads and cams as the J32A2 Type S and swapping them over to a non-Type S J-series is entirely doable.

Look around and you’ll find that the Odyssey is the biggest source of J-series engines. There is likely more than a million of these on the road and plenty in the junkyards. The ‘02-’04 engine is best since it has 30 hp more than the previous J35 and doesn’t feature drive-by-wire throttle like the newer models. Finding the transmission is the hard part. Manuals are only available from the Type S Acuras and the ‘03-and-up Accords. They’re both six-speeds and they both have the same ratios but the Type S features a limited-slip differential. Good luck finding one. Let the hunting begin.

Notes LegendA: Drive By Wire throttleB: Single port exhaustC: Variable Cylinder ManagementD: Six-speed manual transmission availableE: Not compatible with six-speed manual bellhousing

article source:  http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/

Face it, the D series in your Civic is far from anything special. It’s a fuel economy engine. If you want more power, it’s forced induction or a swap. Installing a B-series swap is easy, but Honda hasn’t made a B series since model year 2001. Supply is shrinking and they’re getting pricey. The future of Honda engines is in the new K series, under the hood of the Accord, Element, CR-V, TSX and RSX. Figure more than 400,000 of them are sold each year. They’re already in junkyards and the minimum power is 160. Plus, the 2.0-liter version has lots more torque than a B-series swap and the 2.4 even more still. The EK Civic is the last generation with an double wishbone front suspension instead of cheap MacPherson struts like the 2001-and-up models, and the handling potential of the EK models is well beyond that of the newer cars. It’s also lighter and has lots of non-engine-related performance and bling-bling parts available.

PICKING THE CHASSIS
For starters, Hasport, one of the best-known names for Honda swap parts and engine mounts, has engineered the K swap into the 1996-to-2000 Civic chassis. Any of the Civics (except a Civic that has a Continuously Variable Transmission, CVT) made in these years can accept a K-series engine. A Civic with an auto tranny will work too, but the kit is made to drop in a manual transmission K engine. You’ll have to add the clutch pedal yourself. The leanest, meanest car for speed would be the 1996-to-1997 CX hatchback. It has the lowest weight, least emissions control, a relatively rigid body (since it has no moonroof), and is still relatively available. Next would be a coupe, like an HX, but even a 2000 sedan with its 300 extra pounds will suddenly wake up, especially if you drop in a torquey K24.

PICKING THE ENGINE
There are several versions of the K series. Any of them will fit, but some are better than others. The K20A2 powers the RSX Type-S. It’s the best of the U.S. engines, mainly because it has the real VTEC, with high- and low-rpm lobes for both intake and exhaust valves, as opposed to the sissy eco-version that only acts on the intake cams and has no high-rpm lobes. The A2 also packs the highest compression, is built to withstand higher revs and comes bolted to a six-speed. Unless it’s cheap, a K20A3 engine from a Civic Si or base RSX is probably one to skip. You can beat it with a B20 VTEC and save the trouble of the wiring harness. It’ll go in just like the K20A2 shown here, but unless being different means more to you than being better, why bother? The K24s from the Accord, Element and CR-V are all basically the same, but different intakes and emissions components can complicate things. The Accords and Elements have the most emission control stuff. The CR-V is called a “light truck” by the EPA and will have less crap to hook up, notably EGR. All California cars will have more emissions crap. Consider a K24 for a swap because it will have great torque, responds well to turbocharging and paves the way to a future upgrade with an RSX Type-S or TSX head. That leaves the K24A2 from the TSX or the JDM ITR engine, called simply the K20A. The JDM K20A is the best OEM version there is, with 20 more factory hp and a limited slip. The TSX is so new you likely won’t see one in a yard for some time. The TSX also uses an electronic throttle that could cause other problems. But either of these engines follows the same installation as laid out here.

PICKING THE TRANSMISSION
If you’re polling the yards for complete swaps, you may not have a choice, but there are some diamonds out there. The best of them would be the six-speed from the RSX Type-S, Japanese Type-R or TSX. Either is good, with the TSX being geared for the torque of 2.4 liters and the Type-S and Type-R geared for high-revving powerbands. It’s all the other trannies that present you with choices. There are no CR-V two-wheel-drive manuals, but the Element has some short (high numerically) gears. It might make for a nice, all-motor gearbox. Next is the Civic Si. Nearly an exact match for the RSX, it has lower first and second gears, but a higher final drive. The Accord tranny is about fuel economy. It’s the easy choice for turbo application though, where short gears just mean wheelspin. See the transmission ratios table for all the details. Gears and final drives of all the five-speed boxes are interchangeable, as are the six-speeds. But you can’t swap parts between five-speeds and six-speeds.

ENGINE REMOVAL AND PREP WORK
This is kinda old hat by now. The D-series engines that originally came in these cars are tiny little guys that come out easily. A lift makes things easier since Honda motors go in and out the best from the bottom. When you’re buying your K motor, make sure to get everything attached to the engine, including the engine wire harness and the engine charging harness (battery cable and alternator wires), since it’s a separate piece on K engines. The batteries are in different places in the K-powered cars and you’re going to need its charging and power distribution harness for the EK. The other must-haves are the ECU, an original key and the transponder from the steering column. Since 2000, Honda has built all its cars with a coded key and transponder system as an anti-theft device. ECUs are matched to keys and can’t be reprogrammed without a lot of documentation and an understanding dealer.

COOLING SYSTEM
This one is a bit of a bugger. Our EK uses an aftermarket radiator made for an RSX (you can use the stock RSX unit as well). The stock lower mounts have to be cut off and mounted further down, but it’s very effective and uses stock RSX hoses. The old EK radiator’s fan switch and temp sensor had to be moved when we did this as well (and are still needed if you use your EK radiator). This setup means no A/C without the RSX condenser. Another option, if you want A/C, is to make the EK radiator and the A/C condenser switch places (they sit side-by-side, not one in front of the other like most cars). In the stock location, the EK radiator’s upper outlet hits the K-series intake manifold. For hoses you can use 1994-to-2001 GS-R upper and lower hoses. The lower hose will require some creative trimming to fit properly. The A/C compressor from the K will work with the EK’s condenser, but you’ll have to get custom hoses made. Any good A/C shop should be able to do it. If you don’t care about A/C and didn’t get the RSX radiator, then just move your EK’s radiator to the driver’s side and plug the gaping condenser hole so air will actually go through the radiator. This car didn’t have A/C and so the above suggestions are I-think-so engineering. The K-series compressor will certainly work with the EK’s condenser and it will also work with the condenser from the K-series donor car. The question on that one is, “Can you make it fit?”

Power Steering Sorry, this is a no-go as of yet. The problem is that the pulley sticks up too high to clear the hood. Even when you cut hood support beams, there’s not enough room. Likely, a carbon-fiber hood company will make a K-series hybrid hood soon. For now, you can just loop the in and out hoses on the steering rack together and get a hell of a workout. You will also need to install the idler pulley from an EP3 (2002-and-up Civic Si) to take the place of the power steering pump.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE
The mounts fit a K20 or the 20mm taller K24. If you’re installing a K24, to get the stock hood to shut, some of the reinforcing beams needed to be trimmed. Be careful not to cut too far. If you install a K20, you won’t have to do this. When lowering the car onto the engine (remember, that’s the easier way) line up the left and right mounts first, getting a few threads into those, but leaving them loose. Then get the top bolt off the rear mount. With the lower bolt out, put in the driveshafts. The lower bolt on the rear mount rotates the motor and can make getting the driveshafts in much tougher.

DRIVETRAIN HOOKUP Damn, the bills are piling up fast on this swap. But no one ever said being the first to do a project would be cheap or fast. Your EK needs new axles, because none of them fit exactly. The Civic Si is the closest fit but still comes up short on one side. The Driveshaft Shop custom-built the axles on this car, but Hasport will have both 250- and 400-hp versions in stock, with 525- and 800-hp models available by special order. Next is the shift linkage. The EK uses big rods under the car and the K motor’s tranny uses cables on top of the floor–not to mention the transmission is on the other side of the car. In the world of Honda accidental parts compatibility, the shifter mechanism (the shifter arm and the base its attached to) from a 1990-to-1997 Accord is what you need, plus the cables from the K tranny. The installation problem here is the EK’s transmission hump. Sitting the new cable shifter mechanism on that hump makes the shifter so tall, the factory console won’t cover it. A solution is to mount it under the car. Doing so means making an enclosure for the mechanism so it’s not exposed to the elements. Hasport enclosed it with sheet steel and it worked perfectly. Inside the car, all you see is the stick coming up just like stock. Cables were routed under the car as you would on an H22 swap. The shifter mechanism from any RSX, TSX or current-model Accord will work too, but it’s very tall. Enclosing it and putting it under the car may not leave enough exhaust clearance. If you use this, you’ll have to be creative or skip the stock center console (perfect for racecars). Finally, you’ll probably need a throttle cable from a new Civic Si (EP3). The one in your Civic may or may not be long enough.

FUEL SYSTEM This is either pretty simple if you live in a non-California-emissions state or really tough if you’re in California. Most of it has to do with fuel vapor control. Take a look in the manual at all the controls on the car your K engine came from and you can see about matching them up with your Civic chassis. The 1999-and-2000 cars may have all the matching controls, but certain models may not. The 1996-to-1998 cars will be tougher to match and may require pulling parts from other Civics. If you don’t have them and must put them in to pass emissions, you can probably find a newer sixth-gen. chassis that has the corresponding parts. An example would be a fuel tank pressure sensor. This is on all K-engined cars and 1999-to-2000 Civics, but not our 1996. You have to look at all the emissions control stuff on the K-engine donor car and match it part for part to your car if you want to pass the California smog test or any state that follows California’s rules. The other challenge is the fuel return system. Your EK Civic has one, but the K-series engine doesn’t, plus the K-series operates at a constant fuel pressure, rather than following the intake manifold pressure like the EK’s engine did. An adjustable pressure regulator does the trick–just set it to the pressure in your K-series manual. Fuel comes into the regulator from the filter, pressure is set and goes out to the fuel rail. Excess fuel from the regulator is sent back to the tank via the EK’s return line, which is attached to the second output of the regulator. Mounting the regulator on the firewall close to the fuel filter means just a couple of custom hoses. Don’t hook up a manifold vacuum line. It will freak out the K-series ECU.

INTAKE
Obviously, short-ram intakes designed for the K-series engine are going to be the easiest. But they aren’t very good to begin with, since they typically put the air filter on top of the hot transmission. A better way is to work some custom cold-air piping into the pocket in front of the driver’s tire and the bumper. Just like an EK cold air, but on the other side. As this swap becomes more common, companies will likely make these, just as AEM does for B- and H-hybrid swaps today.

EXHAUST
This is now on the firewall side. Because of the very different crossmember on the EK, the stock exhaust won’t work, nor will any aftermarket exhaust. Hasport has long tube headers available that terminate into a 2.25-inch collector. You can use the stock EK cat and exhaust, but will need to shorten the B-pipe. The O2 sensors on K-series engines are unique. Be certain to get at least the front or first sensor when you buy the engine. The catalytic converter is useless. It contains another 12 inches of pipe before the cat, but the front O2 sensor is a full wideband unit and the ECU expects readings from it, not the narrow band sensor that came with the EK.

THE WIRING
If you thought it was tough getting the right engine with all the right parts and then getting it in the car, grab a drink and sit down. Realists, add $399 to your budget, send the stock EK engine harness, the K engine and charging harnesses to Hasport as a core and get back the plug-and-play version. More time than money? Here goes. Order the service manual and electrical trouble shooting manual for your chassis and the year and type of car your engine came from at www.helminc.com. Helm makes all the OEM manuals for Honda and they’re cheaper there than the dealership, even with a shop discount. With all four of those in hand, you can follow along. These notes are for a 1996-to-1998 chassis; 1999-or-2000 models may be different. Here are your biggest challenges: The EK has a single harness for the engine and for the charging system. The K has separate harnesses. The EK has a conventional dash and the Ks use a multiplex (multiple signals sharing one wire) system to drive the speedo, tach, water temp and more. The EK has relays that operate differently than a K. The K’s engine harness comes through the passenger’s side of the firewall with all its wires, the EK has most of its wires in the same place, but there is one critical plug at the driver’s-side shock tower. There are also signals that are in the EK cabin harness that need to go into what would be the K’s engine harness. Some things, like the engine temp, have to be wired directly into the dash because, although it gets into the K’s ECU, there isn’t a separate output wire. The water sensor on your stock radiator will need to get wired directly to the dash via the driver’s side shock tower plug (see wiring charts). Most importantly, make sure to get what the K manual refers to as the E-plug on the K-series ECU. When the junkyard guys send the ECU, just have them cut it with as much wire hanging from the E-plug as possible. They likely will because there are only three plugs for the ECU and the other two are on the engine harness.

ECU
You need the ECU, key and transponder that match your new K engine. However, Hondata does have a reflashed RSX, RSX Type-S or Civic Si ECU available with dyno-proven results. It also has a fully programmable version based on the RSX Type-S ECU that gives you control of ignition, fuel, i-VTEC, idle, redline, nitrous control, boost and more. If you want the Hondata, the best way to go is the fully programmable unit because it’s the only one that can disable the error codes associated with missing emission controls. Be sure to budget at least $400 to $500 for dyno tuning. Hondata will also sell you a brand-new ECU if you’re moving from a non-Hondata compatible ECU (Accord, Element, CR-V) to a programmable or reflashable unit. Hasport has ECUs with the immobilizer removed, but you’ll be expected to provide full documentation (including VIN numbers) of where you obtained your swap engine. If you source your own ECU, you’ll need the matching VIN number as well or a new ECU receipt. The purchaser’s info will be shared with law enforcement upon request.

TEST DRIVE
If you’re still excited about this swap with all its complexity and mass of odd or custom parts, then you’ll love the result. If it’s 160 hp from a K20 or the super low-end torque of a K24, this is a great swap. The lucky few who get K20A2 motors will really love their new EKs.

Honda Civic Radiator View

Honda Civic Wiring Harness View

Enigne Mounts

Honda Civic Engine Bay View Dropping Engine

Honda Civic Oil Return Line

Making Gear Changes

The EK had rods making gear changes, the K transmissions use cables. The rusty unit is from a ‘90 to ‘97 Accord. The tall plastic one is from any RSX. For a street car, you’re going to want the Accord shifter mechanism, since it’s lower and fits snugly under the transmission tunnel. If you want a high-mounted shifter that’s closer to the steering wheel, use the RSX shifter and mount it on top of the tunnel. No style points, though.

Shifter Mechanism

Honda Civic Fuel Pressure Regulator

Header

RSX Harness

Here’s why it’s probably a better idea to send your K engine, charging harnesses and the EK harness to Hasport

K-series ECU and the C101 cabin harness

The C101 plug on the EK harness

The C101 plug on

Ignition relays

Water Temp Sensor

Using the water temp sensor from your old engine, drill and remount it at the K engine’s water inlet. This will provide signal for the dash gauge and switch on the radiator fan at a preset temperature. You will also need to use the radiator fan switch from the EK chassis.

Honda Civic Engine Bay View